My ‘cold’ that I mentioned in my last post some how manifested itself into the worst soar throat I have ever had. After several sleepless nights drooling on the pillow and days of painful swallowing I decided to go back to the hospital. I opted this time for the walk-in clinic which is much less expensive than the ER. $40 US in fact.
As I was forking over my credit card the man behind the counter he asked me something to the effect of ‘halves or quarters?’ which made no sense to me. I quickly realized that he was asking if I wanted to pay in installments. Such a foreign idea to me to begin with, especially for $40, but as I reached WAY back into all that useless knowledge I learned in college I remembered that Brazil compounds their interest monthly as opposed to the US that does it annually. Therefore when one puts an amount on their card all at once, if they can’t pay it off their payment probably close to doubles, as I can imagine the interest rate here in much higher than the US as well.
After my quick economics lesson and a short 2.5 hour wait I was finally ushered into a room to meet with the doctor. I tell the doctor that I’m American and don’t speak Portuguese, he responds in English and I am relieved. He immediately launches into a story about my last name and how it is close to the name Hutchkinson that apparently was the name of a gun used in World War I. I smile and try to act polite, but I really didn’t go to chat, in fact at this point talking is somewhat of a strain. He goes on and on about how he thinks the French are rude and how he can speak 5 different languages. Finally he looks at my throat and after about 2 seconds he tells me my tonsils are inflamed, writes a prescription, and painstakingly tells me about each drug and of course a personal note about his life. The whole visit took probably 30 minutes of which about 5 where related to my throat.
So I’m currently all drugged up and feeling great. (Minus the fact that I can’t drink…again.) I’ve been trying to lay low this week and rest up.
I’ve been feeling pretty good the last 2 days and to celebrate me and a couple other folks from the house ventured to Habibs for dinner this evening. I must preface this story with the fact that I have been talking about going to Habibs for 7 weeks now. I pass it almost daily on the way to the beach and grocery store. Other people in the house actually think I have been there many times because I talk about how great it is. I can only describe Habibs as the greatest fast food, yet sit down and be served by waiters, in the World. They even proclaim that on the menu. The Arab-American-Brazilian fusion restaurant comes complete with glass place settings, high-class uniforms for their million employees all waiting on you hand and foot and a super creepy genie as their logo.
I think more people in the house need to be exposed to the greatness that is Habibs so I have decided for my last night out I will go to Habibs where they have a drink special, buy one caipirinha and get a beer for free. Greatest place on earth I tell you.
Sunday, February 25, 2007
Tuesday, February 20, 2007
Carnaval. Wow.
(Warning: There are many run-ons in this entry. and a few swear words)
Fuck. Fuck you to all the people who have molested me in the streets. Who have grabbed me by the hair to try and kiss me; to the countless people who had their hands in my pockets searching for money. But fuck it was amazing.
I want to describe my last couple of days at Carnaval as the craziest thing I have ever seen in my life, but I feel crazy just doesn’t do justice to the utter mayhem of Carnaval. No more will I ever say Vegas is the craziest place on earth. No doubt Salvador’s Carnalval has got it beat.
I have been feeling better since my ‘hospitalization’ (besides the cold I now have from being crammed in the streets with millions of other people for hours on end) and have braved the pipoca crowds twice now. Once on Saturday and again on Monday. Tonight is the last night of Carnaval and I am a bit dissappointed that I wasn't able to participate and see more. But with my energy being as low as it is, and still being on a soda cracker diet, I have to take what I can get, or rather what I can stand. Maybe when I'm old and gray I'll journey back and see how Carnaval has changed....anyway...
There are two different parade routes in Salvador, one more traditional in the down town/historic center and the other just added a few years ago running along the beach, near our house.
On Saturday Meghan (my roommate) and I went to Barra (the beach route) to jump and dance in the street. There have been heavy rain storms for the past few weeks leaving the streets filled with mud. Mix the mud with trash everywhere from Carnaval-goers, and an overwhelming smell of urine and bo and the scene is set. Surprisingly the spirit of Carnaval, the singing of the same 10 songs over and over again just whisks you away, at least for the first hour or so. I think if I would have been absolutely wasted I wouldn't have minded when I caught a guy with his hand in my pocket staring me dead in the eye as if to say 'why don't you have any money in there?' Regardless, dancing in the streets next to a semi truck blasting the music of some braziilian band that everyone seems to love , singing songs I didn't know the words to an hour prior, I'd say its worth it.
I am a bit more hesitant to say my Monday night endeavor was as successful. Gabby and I got seperated from the rest of the group and ended up walking the entire downtown parade route. A walk that would normally take 30-40 mintues took us close to 3 hours. We had death grips on each others hands, because if one was to let go the other would literally be swept away in the crowd. There were points where I actually was making no effort to move; the force behind me so stong that my legs were forced to walk forward to the left and to the right.
A common practice amoung men here is to grab, touch, molest and attempt to kiss any girl they see. As Gabby and I made our way through the seemingly endless mob of people I started to charge ahead during a break in the music. As I broke into a slow walk (the fastest pace I ever went) I realized that Gabby wasn't moving. I whipped my head back to see that some man had his arms wrapped around her waist. I turned and walked against the crowd (not advisable) and in what I would consider something close to a bout of rage, I elbowed the guy who tried to lock me into some sick make-out pose, put my arms around Gabby and did some sort of spin forklift move that freed her.
We finally met up with the rest of the group who had a similar experience going down a side street, that also had a parade on it. I'm glad I went out and was able to see the entire route and party how the locals party, but I'm not sure I would do it again...sober.
Fuck. Fuck you to all the people who have molested me in the streets. Who have grabbed me by the hair to try and kiss me; to the countless people who had their hands in my pockets searching for money. But fuck it was amazing.
I want to describe my last couple of days at Carnaval as the craziest thing I have ever seen in my life, but I feel crazy just doesn’t do justice to the utter mayhem of Carnaval. No more will I ever say Vegas is the craziest place on earth. No doubt Salvador’s Carnalval has got it beat.
I have been feeling better since my ‘hospitalization’ (besides the cold I now have from being crammed in the streets with millions of other people for hours on end) and have braved the pipoca crowds twice now. Once on Saturday and again on Monday. Tonight is the last night of Carnaval and I am a bit dissappointed that I wasn't able to participate and see more. But with my energy being as low as it is, and still being on a soda cracker diet, I have to take what I can get, or rather what I can stand. Maybe when I'm old and gray I'll journey back and see how Carnaval has changed....anyway...
There are two different parade routes in Salvador, one more traditional in the down town/historic center and the other just added a few years ago running along the beach, near our house.
On Saturday Meghan (my roommate) and I went to Barra (the beach route) to jump and dance in the street. There have been heavy rain storms for the past few weeks leaving the streets filled with mud. Mix the mud with trash everywhere from Carnaval-goers, and an overwhelming smell of urine and bo and the scene is set. Surprisingly the spirit of Carnaval, the singing of the same 10 songs over and over again just whisks you away, at least for the first hour or so. I think if I would have been absolutely wasted I wouldn't have minded when I caught a guy with his hand in my pocket staring me dead in the eye as if to say 'why don't you have any money in there?' Regardless, dancing in the streets next to a semi truck blasting the music of some braziilian band that everyone seems to love , singing songs I didn't know the words to an hour prior, I'd say its worth it.
I am a bit more hesitant to say my Monday night endeavor was as successful. Gabby and I got seperated from the rest of the group and ended up walking the entire downtown parade route. A walk that would normally take 30-40 mintues took us close to 3 hours. We had death grips on each others hands, because if one was to let go the other would literally be swept away in the crowd. There were points where I actually was making no effort to move; the force behind me so stong that my legs were forced to walk forward to the left and to the right.
A common practice amoung men here is to grab, touch, molest and attempt to kiss any girl they see. As Gabby and I made our way through the seemingly endless mob of people I started to charge ahead during a break in the music. As I broke into a slow walk (the fastest pace I ever went) I realized that Gabby wasn't moving. I whipped my head back to see that some man had his arms wrapped around her waist. I turned and walked against the crowd (not advisable) and in what I would consider something close to a bout of rage, I elbowed the guy who tried to lock me into some sick make-out pose, put my arms around Gabby and did some sort of spin forklift move that freed her.
We finally met up with the rest of the group who had a similar experience going down a side street, that also had a parade on it. I'm glad I went out and was able to see the entire route and party how the locals party, but I'm not sure I would do it again...sober.
Saturday, February 17, 2007
Carne Vale!
I’m not sure Carnaval would be complete for me without a trip to the emergency room and a 6-hour stay in the hospital. I would love to say that I partied like a rock star but unfortunately I had some sort of food poisoning/24 flu that had me curled up in the bathroom, sick as a dog for the entirety of Thursday night.
My trip to the ER was pretty pleasant. I went to the private hospital, and it was the first time I had really come in contact with Salvador’s upper class. I am hoping this is my first and last time to the hospital on this trip.
An hour after returning from the hospital and 5 bags of saline later I was ready to go to my Camarote, which is an organized party on the parade route.
I wasn’t able to drink or eat anything at a party that was open bar and fully catered, but still being able to watch the carnival parade and all the crazy people in the street was spectacular.
There were millions of people in the street, some in organized Blocos that followed the semi trucks that carried the different bands but most of the people go ‘pipoca’ (popcorn) just smashed in the crowd dancing around drinking their .50 cent beers.
Most people from Salvador will tell you that Carnaval is very commercialized now and that 15 years ago Carnaval was celebrated how it should be. But for me it was still amazing and definitely unlike anything I have ever seen before.
I am hoping to make up for my less than stellar performance last night in the next couple of days of Carnaval. If not I’m sure Rio will offer me limitless opportunities to party.
My trip to the ER was pretty pleasant. I went to the private hospital, and it was the first time I had really come in contact with Salvador’s upper class. I am hoping this is my first and last time to the hospital on this trip.
An hour after returning from the hospital and 5 bags of saline later I was ready to go to my Camarote, which is an organized party on the parade route.
I wasn’t able to drink or eat anything at a party that was open bar and fully catered, but still being able to watch the carnival parade and all the crazy people in the street was spectacular.
There were millions of people in the street, some in organized Blocos that followed the semi trucks that carried the different bands but most of the people go ‘pipoca’ (popcorn) just smashed in the crowd dancing around drinking their .50 cent beers.
Most people from Salvador will tell you that Carnaval is very commercialized now and that 15 years ago Carnaval was celebrated how it should be. But for me it was still amazing and definitely unlike anything I have ever seen before.
I am hoping to make up for my less than stellar performance last night in the next couple of days of Carnaval. If not I’m sure Rio will offer me limitless opportunities to party.
Monday, February 05, 2007
The New People
As of Saturday our house has been replenished with new volunteers, replacing the ones that were only able to stay for a couple of weeks. It’s odd having new people around. The age and gender dynamic has changed a bit, now including a handful of men and the average age has probably gone up to about mid twenties.
Last Wednesday a couple of the girls and I attended a soccer game. Bahia (the local team) is in the third division and judging by their performance I would say they are in dead last. Besides the fact that the soccer was crap the atmosphere was crazy. The fans are so passionate about their team and their players. Being some of the only girls there and definitely the only white girls, we were the quite a spectacle. I was interviewed on the news, and during half time there was a huge group surrounding us, trying to speak English, as if we were celebrities.
Friday was a holiday of sorts for the Condomble God Iemanjá. Iemanjá is the goddess of the sea and every February 2nd thousands of people line the streets to give her gifts of flowers and perfume. The morning and afternoon of the festival is mostly people waiting in line to give their offerings, but when the boats carry all the presents out to sea at 4pm a full on block party begins. I was only able to brave the heat for a couple hours in the morning, but in those few hours I saw a woman become “entranced” on the beach, many different parades and hundreds of baskets of flowers being loaded into the boats to go out to sea.
That night we attended the Ballet Folklorico. It was an absolutely stunning performance of the different traditional Brazilian, Bahian, and Condomble dances. They even had a fire eater! The theater is the tiniest little thing and you practically sit on stage as men flip around with swords in their hands. After the ballet we went to dinner at a posh sushi restaurant. I was so excited to have something besides rice and beans for dinner. The food was great and the restaurant jutted right out into the bay, which made for a fantastic breeze and great view.
My activities for the rest of the weekend included a wide variety of alcohol and company. Sunday we went to a bbq at one of our Brazilian friend’s house and ended up staying there for close to 10 hours, talking, singing, dancing, swimming, drinking and more drinking. Needless to say this morning was a bit rough and I have taken the entire day to recover.
I have firmed up my travel plans for post Salvador and will be doing a 4 day Amazon tour with another girl here and then moving on to Rio. I can’t believe how quickly time has gone by.
Last Wednesday a couple of the girls and I attended a soccer game. Bahia (the local team) is in the third division and judging by their performance I would say they are in dead last. Besides the fact that the soccer was crap the atmosphere was crazy. The fans are so passionate about their team and their players. Being some of the only girls there and definitely the only white girls, we were the quite a spectacle. I was interviewed on the news, and during half time there was a huge group surrounding us, trying to speak English, as if we were celebrities.
Friday was a holiday of sorts for the Condomble God Iemanjá. Iemanjá is the goddess of the sea and every February 2nd thousands of people line the streets to give her gifts of flowers and perfume. The morning and afternoon of the festival is mostly people waiting in line to give their offerings, but when the boats carry all the presents out to sea at 4pm a full on block party begins. I was only able to brave the heat for a couple hours in the morning, but in those few hours I saw a woman become “entranced” on the beach, many different parades and hundreds of baskets of flowers being loaded into the boats to go out to sea.
That night we attended the Ballet Folklorico. It was an absolutely stunning performance of the different traditional Brazilian, Bahian, and Condomble dances. They even had a fire eater! The theater is the tiniest little thing and you practically sit on stage as men flip around with swords in their hands. After the ballet we went to dinner at a posh sushi restaurant. I was so excited to have something besides rice and beans for dinner. The food was great and the restaurant jutted right out into the bay, which made for a fantastic breeze and great view.
My activities for the rest of the weekend included a wide variety of alcohol and company. Sunday we went to a bbq at one of our Brazilian friend’s house and ended up staying there for close to 10 hours, talking, singing, dancing, swimming, drinking and more drinking. Needless to say this morning was a bit rough and I have taken the entire day to recover.
I have firmed up my travel plans for post Salvador and will be doing a 4 day Amazon tour with another girl here and then moving on to Rio. I can’t believe how quickly time has gone by.
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